Decoding the gearbox of the LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender

UPDATE – I created a detailed guide about the possible errors of the Defender with a guide to remove to body in a few minutes and other useful information, click here to access it

After my review of the LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender I received a lot of questions about the gearbox, how it works, does it really runs inverted, did I make any building mistakes etc. I decided to create another video to show the gearbox in details, demonstrate why I think it runs the other way around and give anyone a chance to take a closer look
at my build and find any possible errors.

Besides the video demonstration here’s a little written summary about the drivetrain of the Defender.

In a normal car the engine drives the wheels through the gearbox, in a LEGO car this is the other way around. By pushing the car the wheels are driving the fake engine through the gearbox.

If we take a look at the bottom of the car we can see that both axles have a differential and the wheels are driving a central differential. There’s a 8T/24T gearing on both axles, which means the speed of the wheels is significantly slowed down.

The power from the central differential is transmitted to the DNR selector through a series of gears.

If the DNR selector is in drive mode then the power is transferred to the right side of the vehicle to the hi/lo selector.

Here you can see that low mode the power coming from the wheels is again geared down. This is incorrect, as it will make the fake engine run slower. In a real car at a constant wheel speed a lower gear means a faster engine.

After the hi/lo selector the power is transmitted to the gearbox through an axle and it comes back on the other one.

And at the end it reaches the fake engine through a series of gears in the front.

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131 Comments:

  1. Hi,
    First of all, thank you for sharing this information. I learnt a lot. Too bad I didn’t check your videos before building mine. As now I see my rear wheels are moving in the opposite directions, making the Defender not able to move at all. Just wondering, is there an easy way to fix that without pulling apart the whole thing? Just can’t fathom spending another weekend making it again :(.

    Cheers and great work!

    • I guess you have the differential reversed. Don’t think you need to take it apart completely, you need to be able to disconnect the steering arms holding the hubs to pull out the axles from the differential. There are a couple of things to remove for this operation but should not be too difficult.

      • Would you please explain this in more detail? I have the same issue as the commenter above. And it seems like other people are having the same problem as well, as I also saw people mentioning it on Reddit and Facebook. The front and back wheels are moving in opposite direction.

        • If you check steps 4 and 134, you need to make sure that the orientation of the dark bluish gray piece (the differential) is the same as on the picture and not turned by 180 degrees.

          • I had same problem with back wheels not rotating same direction. Read your thread at turned the differential, but still did not help. So noticed the problem was with the creamy colored rotator (dont know the correct word) which connects to the dark grey differential. So the creamy rotator does not spin (rotate at all). Removed it conpletely and now the back wheels spin to same rotation.
            But can you help with this creamy colored rotator? Why is it stuck so it doent spin?

          • If you remove any gears the drivetrain won’t work. If a gear is stuck you need to check why it does not rotate, which element is stuck in the drivetrain.

      • This article/comments helped so much, thanks.

    • Hi I’ve been meaning to get around to this and the lock down feels like a good excuse. Everything on my defender works apart from the pistons going up and down when I push the car along. But if I open the the rear door and put my thumb across the two grey cogs they move, so it seems they are connected. can you help?

      • Do they work in R in any gear in D?

          • In R the engine should be driven directly, bypassing the gearbox. If it does not work then something is not connected properly around the engine. Check my video above to see which gears should be connected and working around the engine, you’ll probably need to remove the body for this.

      • Did you get to the bottom of this problem? I am having the same issue. The driving is perfect but the pistons don’t work at all. I have stripped it down and still can’t get to the bottom of it. Any help would be great. The videos are great but my problem is not rectified by anything on there.

  2. I just turned the rear differential 180 degrees. Was a bit of fiddling – but I am currently starting fase 3, so I was relieved to find that it was not that much deconstruction. Carefully remove the lower wishbone and you are able to reach the diff. Don’t drop the small parts into your model. I did. Was nerve wrecking shake but I retrieved it and was able to remove and rebuild the whole thing within 15 minutes. Good luck!

    • rotated the diff. Not turned. Sorry.

      • Yes I had problems with the rear wheels turning opposite directions , checked that both differentials were in correct position bu5 found that rear one was jammed and would not rotate. After reading various blogs on here and rechecked I found that at step 65 , I had inserted the dark grey bit
        part no 6261374 upside down meaning that the beige coloured rod coming from the diff could not rotate . Managed fairly quickly to rectify and problem solved.

  3. Anyone had an issue with the wrong size gear wheel on page 28. First instruction it shows grey 24 teeth it’s too big. Beige gear seems to be the correct size.

  4. I should remember to rotate the gear box when I get the model!
    Thanks for the memo!
    🙂

  5. hello! I found the rear of the car sitting very low on its base and the rear wheels almost touching the wheel arches.

    This is very low compared to the front end, what have I done wrong in the build, and how can I correct it please?

    I checked the speed build review n seems didnt do anything wrong 😣😣

  6. My rear wheels are moving in opposite directions. How can I fix this?

  7. After I built my defender, when rolling on the floor, the wheels do not drive the gears at all in any gear, the defender rolls smoothly however.

    Ideas?

  8. I have the same problem here. When rolling on the floor, in all DNR mode, the wheel move smoothly, but not driving the gear to move. However, when I lift up the defender, the wheel can drive gear in D and R mode.

    I notice one thing, when I move the grey wheel at the end (like in the video), the gear move together with the wheel. However the wheel is in opposite direction, please see the youtube link.
    https://youtu.be/AwVIiBO0XSQ

    And the bottom looks like this
    https://youtu.be/V5u1AvdV8oo

    I have crossed checked the differential, I cannot spot anything. Any idea?

    • Your rear differential is turned by 180 degrees. The wide part of the differentials should be on the same side for both axles.

    • After I turn the differential 180 degress, to align the both axles same side, it works. Thanks!

    • Hi Doraemon, I’m exactly in the same situation. Please could you share how you fixed it?

      • Check the first photo of the article, the front and rear differentials should have the same orientation, if the front of the car is at the right then the wide part of the differentials should face downwards

    • Hi Doraemon, I’m exactly in the same situation. Please could you share how you fixed it?

  9. I’ve finished it -looks outstanding- but it doesn’t roll in any gears and i’ve check the differentials allignment and compared it to the instructions and neither me or my dad have spotted the problem therefore we can’t fix it.
    Any other possible solutions?

    • Disconnect the 2 shafts to and from the gearbox and check the whole drivetrain section by section, you can roll most of the gears manually (you’ll have to remove the body for this)

  10. Hi Racing Brick.

    As far as I’m aware, I’ve done everything by the book… (of course!) However, I’ve just got to placing the steering wheel on and find the front wheels seem to be seized? The steering wheel won’t manoeuvre either way for some reason. Is something too tight or have I got something wrong?

    Please advise because I’m loath to continue when I may have a chance to rectify!

    Absolutely loving making this!

    Many thanks,

    Josie

  11. Ref. The seized steering column.. Panic over! I finally worked it out. I mistook a # 4211553 for a # 4210658! It was stopping the big long black shaft thing from turning freely. Easily rectified so I can continue my Christmas build 🤓

  12. Do your wheels spin backwards if you drive it forward and lift it up in high gear? Mine does.

  13. I ‘m having a problem at step 271. The black gear doesn’t have enough room (in terms of height) to seat on top of the grey gear. By any chance did you have a similar problem when you were building?

  14. Not sure what I’ve got wrong as it all looks right but the rear diff is locked – if I force it (a few inches) the rear wheels will turn in the opposite direction to the front – looks like I’m going to pull the whole back end to bits again

    Also, the gear selector mechanism operates but I can’t see what it actually changes the two grey hubs seem to just move freely

    • If the rear wheels turn in the opposite directions to the front ones then one of your differentials is turned by 180 degrees. Both of them should face the same direction.

      • After i completed the entire build i struggled with some of the problems already mentioned. Rebuild the entire rear end and the vehicle is still struggling. Noticed problems with steps 62-63-64. When pushing in the long grey shaft l64) its under an immense tension, going together with difficulties to push in the blue plugs (63). After doing this everything seems to seize, an idea what to do now?

        • I had the exact same issue and figured out that it was caused by the small gear in step 3. I believe you, as I did, have used the slightly larger black gear, while if you look closely on page 6,the correct size gear is indicated 1:1,and should be gray. Hope this helps 🙂

  15. I’ve fitted the rear diff correctly (same as front diff), but it just seems to lock whenever I try to get both wheels rolling. They’ll run independently (in opposite directions), but, unlike the front diff, the rear diff will never rotate. The whole mechanism seems to seize – so I don’t get the engine cylinders moving etc.

    Have rebuilt the rear-end about four times now as I wondered if I’d somehow missed a step, but and am getting frustrated: just feels like something is loading up the cog wheels somewhere in the gearbox and stopping the whole thing from working.

    Do you know if there’s an easy fix?

    • It’s very difficult to identify the issue without seeing it, there’s no easy fix for “something is stuck somewhere”. I suggest to remove the body completely, and start to follow the drivetrain from each axle and try to find where the issue is. You can disconnect the shafts to and from the gearbox, that also helps to run the different sections independently to narrow down the area where the problem is.

    • I’m having the same problem. Did you solve it?

      • I had a similar issue with the rear gear blocked and it was the part in step 68 having been mounted in the wrong way and blocking the beige axle.

      • I had a similar issue with the rear gear blocked and it turned out that the beige axle was blocked by the part mounted in step 65, which I turned the iron way round.

  16. My problem with the gear box is that R works fine, N motor does not move when wheels moving, D does not work at all? Any solution? Cheers!

  17. I am on pack two of the set, and my front wheels don’t turn when I turn the steering wheel. I actually had a leftover beige gear when I finished so I must have done something wrong. Please help.

    • If you have a leftover gear then it is missing somewhere. Go back and see where that kind of gear was supposed to use and check if it is missing in your build.

  18. OK. I looked inside and saw that there was a gear between the tires that don’t connect to anything. Is that where it goes?

    • I suggest to have a look at the instructions and see where it goes

      • After i completed the entire build i struggled with some of the problems already mentioned. Rebuild the entire rear end and the vehicle is still struggling. Noticed problems with steps 62-63-64. When pushing in the long grey shaft l64) its under an immense tension, going together with difficulties to push in the blue plugs (63). After doing this everything seems to seize, an idea what to do now?

        • I’m sure something is not properly aligned or pushed in place in the assemblies, there should be no tension. Verify the components of the gearbox sub-assembly to ensure there are no unnecessary gaps.

    • Hallo racingbrick, you mentioned an other video on issues and traps,
      When will it be released and what will it be called ?
      We are all desperately waiting for it 😎

      • I’m editing it right now, it’s massive and takes tons of time to create. Will be released early next week hopefully.

  19. Should the steering wheel turn the wheels by pack 2?

  20. Building land cruiser 42110. I think I finished the first part wrong. When I turn the shafts for steps 88 and 89 They turn the gears from the assembly started on step 33. But the wheels are not engaged. Step 94 does turn engage and disengage the orange fin from the gear arrangements. When turn shafts from step 88 & 89, I feel the gearing difference. But again none of this engages the wheels. Only when turning the shafts from step 85 do the wheels engage. Before I disassemble and start 2+ hours of work again, I thought I’d checkin.

  21. Just built mine and this has happened to me… bloody hell haha

    Ill leave it for another night!

    Great video anwrite up though

  22. I have the same issue as many others here – finished the build but the front and rear wheels turn in opposite directions when you turn one set or the other. I have checked and my three differentials all exactly match the alignment of yours in the second image above.

    What else could be causing this?

    • What happens if you turn the central (red) differential manually? All wheels should spin in the same direction.

      • Yes they do turn in the same direction then – but when I turn the small grey gear in the middle right at the back the front and rear go in different directions.

        • Not sure which gear you’re talking about but that can be normal (depending on the gear). Can you push the car forward on the ground?

          • I mean the small grey cog right at the very back behind the rear differential. I can roll it in certain gears (and in neutral) but in high gear it grinds to a halt as the front and rear wheels work against each other. Something odd somewhere but i can’t find where!

          • That’s normal, when I turn it the front and back wheels turn in the opposite direction. Since the 2 differentials are joined in the central differential before the DNR selector and the gearbox it would be highly unlikely to have the front and rear gears turning against each other only in certain gears. Did you check the alignment of the U joints already based on my other video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0p1kMtrvFvQ

  23. Ah ha. Yes pretty sure that’s my problem! Thanks so much. Hadn’t seen this video previously. Not sure how easy it is to get to them now, but I have all the same symptoms. High gears are much worse and I get the build up of tension so that the wheels spin backwards when you lift it up – like a wind up toy almost. Quite frustrating that such a tiny detail has such a big impact. Any idea how easy or difficult it is to get to them now the build is complete?

  24. Niels van der Ploeg

    I have a problem with my LEGO Land Rover Defender. If I put the gearbox in N or R (it doesn’t matter if it is in LO or HI) the Defender rolls smoothly forward, but when I switch the gearbox in D (LO or HI) and I drive the Defender forwards (or backwards) ), I can’t push it further at a certain point (I think it crashes) and when I release it, it will drive back a little (or when I push the Defender back, it will roll forward). Does anyone know how I can solve that?

  25. I have a problem with my gearbox, when in R the engine runs fine, the pistons are spinning a little slower than in your video though. In Drive mode pistons don’t move.

    I’m a little frustrated and a very ashamed to be asking for advice in a public forum about building a LEGO set lol, I would like to understand the issue given that I even rebuild the rear part convinced I found the issue.

    Here are some pictures:

    http://www.antanix.net/defender/1.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/2.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/3.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/4.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/5.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/6.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/7.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/8.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/9.jpg
    http://www.antanix.net/defender/10.jpg

    thanks so much!

  26. Did you try to push the car in multiple different gears, also in Hi/Lo? In some gears you need to push the car around 1m until the pistons start to move. In R the whole gearbox is bypassed so that’s why the pistons move almost instantly.

  27. I added a motor like in your video, will record it when I got a chance

  28. Hello! First of all I would like to thank you for all your videos on this set that already helped me so much with the building process, but I’m still getting a lot of cracking noises when the higher gears are engaged. I checked the alignment of the universal joints many times and also the other gear that you show in the video. Is there any other critical point that I should check to get rid of the cracking?
    Thanks a lot in advance!

  29. Hi.
    I just finished my Defender and for some reason the left and right side of the wheels go in different directions. One side goes forward and the other backwards or the other way around.

    Do you have any suggestion ?

    Thanks in advance!

  30. Hey! Thanks for all the help you provide to people. It’s really saving a lot of people a lot of time.

    My issue: The rear wheels go in the opposite direction of the front wheels when I turn/push them. And vice versa. When pushing the car it goes about half a meter or so, it starts to provide resistance, followed by a semi-loud “crack” where pistons, shafts and axels suddenly do all the movement that somehow was kept back by the mentioned resistance. This only happens in D, where as in R everything works wonders.

    What I’ve tried: All differentials are placed exactly as described in the manual. I’ve redone the universal joints 10 times, but to not effect. All gears (and cogs on the entire car) seems to work without issue when testing them each manually. Removing one of the joints solves the resistance issue, but then the engine won’t work. Have you got any idea where the error might be?

    Worst case scenario I’ll have to re-do the entire engine, gears and shafts. Or just leave it in R..

    Anyway, thanks in advance!

    • It’s hard to tell what’s wrong based on this, everything needs to be perfectly aligned to make it work. I’ll do another video on the Defender in 1-2 weeks where I will show all the possible issues and traps during the building process, hopefully that’ll help.

      • To bring an update to this:
        I had a look at your “decoding the gearbox” video earlier and decided to compare it with my own the front and center diffs were moving in the correct direction, but the rear turned the opposite way in comparison to your video. I’ve started to take off the entire back and check every step again.

  31. Help please? The rear diff is stuck allowing only counter rotation of the wheels on that axle, however there is no forward or rear movement at all on the rear axle.

    this is in every gear, hi and low range, reverse, neutral or drive.

    The front end seems to work properly, all the way down to the centre diff which still moves, just some where between centre diff and rear diff is causing a problem, i have gone back over instruction and rear diff assembly is correct as per instruction book 🙁

  32. Hi Racingbrick,

    Another builder that is having some trouble. I have joined the two halves from part 1 & 2, fitted the wheels and tyres. However, when I roll the chassis it doesn’t drive the crankshaft.. It doesn’t matter if I have selected ‘D’ or ‘N’. If I spin the rearmost two grey cogs, it will drive the crankshaft and pistons in both ‘D’ and ‘N’.

    If I select ‘R’ however it seems to lock up..

    So, rolling the chassis, the engine doesn’t chime in, but rotating the rear two grey cogs will get the engine to work but it wont roll the wheels.. I have re-built both front- and rear parts of this build and don’t really want to start all over again. Can you help out?

    • First thing to verify – are your differentials placed correctly. Check the first photo on this page (belly shot), you will see that both differentials should have the same orientation.

  33. Good morning,
    I hope you are well and managing to stay safe. I have a question about stage one. I have almost completed stage one, maybe 10 steps away. Should all the gears turn at this point? Something seems to be stopping them. Thanks in advance!

    John

    • Every gear should turn freely, if an axle is stuck somewhere then there’s a mistake. Most common one is at step 65, if you insert the dark bluish gray piece the other way around then it will block the axle.

      • Thank you for your reply. It turns out that I had put a pole through the wrong hole on a cog back on step 61. 🤦‍♂️

  34. Help please…i just finish build my lego landrover defender…but find out that the steering wheel cannot turn freely…as far as i concern , i had follow the instruction carefully…any idea where is the error and can it be rectify ?

    • Is it the steering wheel or the HOG steering on the top of the cabin? You can check step 274, make sure the dark bluish gray piece that’s in the yellow bracket is the one with the hole and the axle inside can turn freely.

      • Its the steering wheel…HOG steering on the top can turn freely however the steering and front wheel cannot turn…thank you for ur quick response…will check step 274 first

        • If HOG can turn freely then the issue is elsewhere probably as step 274 blocks the axle to the HOG gear. If you can turn HOG freely but not the steering wheel and the front wheel then you might have multiple issues, since the HOG gear should turn together with the steering wheel, if that’s blocked then HOG should be blocked as well.

          I’d suggest to start at the steering wheel and start to follow the axles and gears going to the steering rack. Usually the problem is a piece inserted incorrectly, like the ones you add at step 281. If they assembled the other way around then the steering axle won’t turn freely as there won’t be a “simple hole” there but an axle hole that does not allow it to turn.

  35. Hi,
    Solution for those whose rear diff is locked and rear wheels turn in opposite directions.
    Go to step 65, check the small grey twisted thing is installed the correct way up. If the beige shaft is slotted into the crosses then it locks the shaft. Flip it so it rotates smoothly and the light gray connector slides through the crosses instead.

    You should find the diff is now unlocked.
    As for wheels rotating in opposite direction in the rear, follow step 4 to check your diff is installed in the correct orientation.

    It’s possible to correct these 2 without pulling it all apart. Patience!

  36. Good day! Assembled everything to the body. I decided to check. There is a problem. Just what you are talking about: the rear wheels rotate in different directions. If you twist one, the other spins in the opposite direction. Both wheels do not rotate in one direction – they are blocked. If you put the car on wheels and push it forward – it goes with a strong crash on the rear wheels. Does not go back at all. Those. two rear wheels do not spin at the same time back. At step 65, I checked – it was installed correctly. What could be the problem?
    P.S. I’m sorry, English is not my native language ..

    • I suggest to have a look at my new article and video – https://racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
      If you are sure the piece at step 65 is installed correctly then have a look at the pieces added at step 84. Otherwise use the guide to remove the body then you can observe all axles and gears between the rear and the central differential.

      • Good day! Thanks for the detailed new video! Everything is very well shown. I advise everyone to add it to your favorites! 🙂
        Unfortunately, it did not help me. I carefully checked everything in all steps and realized that all the main steps on which it was possible to make mistakes were collected correctly from me.
        What doesn’t work for me:
        1) the situation completely repeats what is shown in the video in step 65 (the rear wheels rotate in different directions, the rear rotation is blocked, forward rotation is simultaneously possible, but with a bang). The part in step 65 is set correctly.
        2) 2 shafts that are installed in step 88 and 89 are installed correctly. In this case, the shaft 88 can be rotated 180%, and the shaft 89 is blocked.
        3) the whole mechanism, except for the rear, works correctly.
        Perhaps this information will help determine what my problem is. If not, I will probably have to go through steps 1 – 90 completely. You can tell me how to disconnect the back of the machine with minimal analysis of the rest. Now the car is assembled up to step 368.
        Thanks!

        • Sorry I can’t tell you what’s wrong based on this. I suggest to start the complete rear section from scratch, and during the building process verify constantly if everything rotates as it should.

          • Thanks! So I will do it. I will try to find the problem.

          • Good afternoon! I managed to localize the problem! The problem was in part 6133119, which is installed in step 61. Until step 64, this part is at the end of a long pin. At step 64, this part flew off the pin and the pin subsequently fell not into the central hole, but into one of the four side holes. Because of this, part 6133119 blocked the entire rear mechanism. You just have to be careful 🙂 Now I’m continuing to build. Thank!

  37. Great to know you managed to find the problem 🙂

  38. I have a problem with the DNR selector moving with the Hi-Lo lever locked to it through the splined brown rod. Problem started at step 249-250which appears to show an open ended brown rod (250) as opposed to #3 in (249) I cannot see how these levers can work independently as in (256) How are they supposed to work independently?

  39. In my case, I found out that in D mode, the Hi-Lo gear didn’t engaged. So you need to check and make sure the gears are engaged already. Even you build correctly but if the gears don’t engaged, it doesn’t work.

  40. Very grateful for the solution, on no 248(page 137) I did not spot the shorter brown pin end went between the two black pieces. This is why couldn’t figure out length of brown rod and used a long one instead. Have managed to fit the two small ones having shortened them and inserting from the outside.
    All now works.

  41. Hi, thanks for your detailed and informative videos!

    I’ve completed the model but have tried to rebuild it several times. It was running very badly and I found that the differential casing I’d used on the rear was slightly warped, so once per rotation it was getting a bit stuck against its corresponding gear. Luckily, I was able to steal a replacement part from my son’s Mack Anthem model 😉

    It now runs better, but when it’s in D and both Hi or Lo, things seem to bind up in the top two gears. As others have described, it’s like pushing a pullback car and when it’s released, it bounces back. I’ve taken it apart around 3 times in total and am absolutely certain that it’s built exactly as per the instructions. I’ve even followed your advice and corrected the universal joints on the input and output shafts.

    Any idea at all what the problem can be? Everything seems to work smoothly when I check sections of the build independently and it’s driving me crazy. Please help!

  42. I have checked everything on this , my dif’s are all correct and finally can get the pistons to move in drive low gear however not in high but I am only pushing it about 1 mtr that’s prob the reason but I’m happy as it is because flit took me 4 full days 9 to 430 to build this and am refusing to pull it apart and start again . My question is can you tell me how to yield a couple of people to put in it as mini figs are way too small lol , I have never built people
    Thanks great build btw

  43. Ops that’s build a couple of people #

  44. Hey guys.
    I’ve double checked my rear diff is all correctly built.
    And when I try push my defender it doesn’t move.
    When I lift it and move one back wheel
    The other wheel spins opposite direction,
    Is anyone able to help me thanks

  45. I’m finding this the most frustrating Lego build I’ve ever had (and I’ve got a lot), the odd occasion I’ve made mistakes before its been easy enough to figure out and correct the mistake. Here, I don’t even know what I’ve done wrong to find it. First I had the front and back wheels only moving in opposite directions and it would move at all on the flat so I must of had the diffs the wrong way round but when I disassembled for the life of me I couldn’t see what I done wrong. Now I’ve reassembled to step 336 and I have different problems.

    1. It runs smoothly on the wheels on the flat, in all gear modes but no part of the engine moves. If I move the two grey 4640536 pieces by hand though I can get it to move. Any suggestions as to what I’ve done wrong ?

    2. If I turn the small dark grey 6012451 that’s accessible under the vehicle in the middle by hand both front wheels turn in the same direction as each other, however if I turn the red dif 6188245 by hand the front and back wheels move in opposite directions. Again, any suggestions as to what I’ve done wrong.

    I’m resigned to the idea that I have to dismantle (again) and start over, but given I was confident both times that I had followed the instructions correctly advice on what the heck I’m doing wrong would be much appreciated.

  46. Build finished! diffs both facing the same way, wheels all turn, however they all turn independantly (not one in opposite direction of other). Nothing changes when i put in D or R. Having watched all your vids and read all the posts it does not appear that anyone has had this problem. Would love some help 🙂

    • Check the videos showing the drive train elements’ functionality from the wheels/diffs up until the fake engine. Compare your build and you’ll have to find the difference in behavior, what axles/gears are not turning etc.

  47. Build finished! diffs both facing the same way, wheels all turn, however they all turn independently (not one in opposite direction of other). When i put in D or R the pistons move, however if i turn the + or – in one direction then the wheels block after a while and it rolls back. No idea if these issues are connected. Any help appreciated!

  48. I still can’t figure it out I read all of the comments and I checked everything on the car it’s all where it should be and the rear wheels don’t go the same way as the front wheels

  49. I don’t want to spend a whole 10 hours making it again

  50. So I’ve finished the build, checked step 65, checked step 4. Made sure the differentials are in the right position.

    But my rear wheels are still going in opposite directions, or they can only go in reverse.
    I am so confused

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